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Twilight falls. Eric brings coffee, tea and banana cookies upstairs. While we enjoy

the snacks, we watch the sun slowly sinking and finally disappearing behind the

horizon in a dramatic play of colours. The chorus of frogs swells, and the cicadas

make their timbales vibrate. Eric paddles silently through the water and takes us

to a tree full of fireflies. They flicker like the twinkling lights of a lavish Christmas

garland. Instantly, the river bathes in a fairy-like atmosphere. But is not this mis-

leading? For are there no evil, wiry men hiding in the dark forest keeping an eye

on us with machete and blowpipe?