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18

A mini-village on the water

The

Knight Inlet Lodge

lies safely nestled in Glendale Cove,

sixty kilometres from the entrance to the fjord. We are now in

the middle of one of the last stretches of true wilderness on

earth. In this unique unspoiled nature, bears, wolves, foxes,

deer and eagles feel at home. The lodge was once a floa-

ting lumberjack camp. About twenty years ago, it became a

unique resort that receives visitors from all over the world

to introduce them in an authentic way to the residents of

the

Great Bear Rainforest.

The lodge is deliberately kept

small-scale: 18 rooms for a maximum of 30 guests so that

the impact on nature remains minimal. Brian, the manager of

the lodge, welcomes us with a jovial “Hi, folks!”

At full speed through the Knight Inlet

The Knight Inlet measures a full 125 kilometres in length and

is the longest coastal fjord in British Columbia. With Jason at

the helm, we race along the water in a speedboat and travel

from Glendale Cove to the Glacier Bay, a distance of 20

miles. We are surrounded by metres-high steep cliffs, walls

of granite on which trees miraculously grow. Many trees

even. They sprout from every slit, groove and dimple in the

rock wall. Often the trunk of the spruce bends in a small,

lateral arch to bravely start its long way upwards. The green

contrasts nicely with the soft hues of the rocks. Grey, taupe,

beige and even pure white where a piece of rock has just

been broken off. We motor past several waterfalls that form

high in the glaciers and make their spectacular way down

to eventually thunderously plunge into the fjord. The contact

between the fresh glacier water and the salt water of the

fjord creates a unique, bright blue colour. On one of the nar-

row beaches, a black bear burrows in the sand. We can tick

that one off our list too. An American bald eagle is perched

on a pole in the water. We gently approach him. The bird of

prey remains seated stoically and doesn’t afford us as much

as a glance. We get all the time we need to photograph him.

It is a beautiful animal: deep brown with a distinctive white

head, a bright yellow beak and a sharp, penetrating look. A

little later we see it graciously gliding over the water with a

thrashing fish in its claws.

t r a v e l i n g

Brian Collen, general manager Knight Inlet Lodge