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bodies make for an outlandish and magnificent landscape.

The contact between groundwater, magma, sulphur and

salt causes unnaturally bright colours: orange brown, neon

yellow and poison green. To increase the surrealistic vibe,

hissing gases rise from countless geysers. As the nasty

smells of sulphur are having us gasp for air, we very care-

fully look where we place our feet. The surface is so thin,

that the lava flows right underneath our feet. When we leave

the area, we notice that the soles of our hiking shoes have

come loose. The glue just simply melted.

The day is over, and we head to

Ahmed Ale

, a small ham-

let where many salt workers spend the night. The camp

consists of a few shabby huts, made of crooked sticks with

jute bags and torn sails over top, which must create the

illusion that there is a roof. Facilities, or anything remotely

resembling that, are missing. When we have to do our busi-

ness, we must find somewhere in the field, like everyone

else. There are no trees or bushes to hide behind. What

there are, however, are curious Afar, because a white bum

is always an attraction.